To dress Macaroni with Permasent Cheese

23 april är St George's Day, a.k.a Englands nationaldag! 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 Dagens recept är To dress Macaroni with Permasent Cheese. 

Först back story! Det här ledde mig ned ett research rabbit hole. 

Okej, okej. Det är inte första receptet på pasta och ost. Italienska kokboken "Liber de Coquina" från 1300-talet har recept på gratäng med pasta och parmesan (Wikipedia). Och vidare säger Wikipedia att 

"[a] cheese and pasta casserole known as makerouns" finns i engelska kokboken "Forme of Cury" från 1300-talet, och "was made with fresh, hand-cut pasta which was sandwiched between a mixture of melted butter and cheese, the recipe comparing it to losyns, a dish similar to lasagne." 

British Food History beskriver receptet så här: 

"Pasta made from breadcrumbs (I must try it sometime) cooked in a velouté sauce (like a béchamel but made with stock instead of milk), and something called chese ruayn which was a hard cheese similar in taste to brie, resulting in something half-way between macaroni cheese and a lasagne."

Men första receptet på pasta- och ostgratäng som liknar modern mac and cheese, kommer från England. Men vad är macaroni i gamla recept? Oxford Reference förklarar: 

"Macaroni, pasta in the form of small tubes, first found its way from Italy to Britain at the end of the sixteenth century, and in the intervening years has become thoroughly anglicized: un-Italian dishes such as macaroni cheese (mentioned as long ago as 1769 by Elizabeth Raffald in her Experienced English Housekeeper and now an unexpected Barbadian favourite; American-speakers call it macaroni and cheese) and sweet macaroni pudding made with milk have become firmly established in British cuisine. Its name has been naturalized, too: when English acquired it, it was maccaroni (a derivative ultimately of late Greek makaría ‘food made from barley’), but the spelling with one c finally became generally accepted in the nineteenth century, while in modern Italian maccheroni has superseded maccaroni." 

Okej, tillbaka till Wikipedia: 

"Raffald's recipe is for a Béchamel sauce with cheddar cheese—a Mornay sauce in French cooking—which is mixed with macaroni, sprinkled with Parmesan, and baked until bubbly and golden." Sen återges hela receptet: 

"To dress Macaroni with Permasent [Parmasan] Cheese. Boil four Ounces of Macaroni ’till it be quite tender, and lay it on a Sieve to drain, then put it in a Tolling Pan, with about a Gill of good Cream, a Lump of Butter rolled in Flour, boil it five Minutes, pour it on a Plate, lay all over it Permasent Cheese toasted; send it to the Table on a Water Plate, for it soon goes cold."

Men INGENSTANS nämns cheddar! 

Och i mitt googlande såg jag detta upprepas om och om och om igen! 

Nigel on food: "Raffald’s recipe is for a béchamel sauce with cheddar cheese which is the recipe I use to this day!" 

The Morning Call: "The first written recipe for macaroni and cheese appeared in 1769 in "The Experienced English Housekeeper," a book written by a Mrs. Elizabeth Raffald. It's quite close to the"quintessential American macaroni and cheese," writes Spieler, which, like the British dish, is made with bechamel (white) sauce and Cheddar." 

Museum of hoaxes: "Marlena Spieler, author of Macaroni and Cheese, writes that:
The first written recipe [for macaroni and cheese] seems to be from The Experienced English Housekeeper, by a Mrs. Elizabeth Raffald. Published in 1769, it appears to be the forerunner of our own American classic: bechamel sauce with Cheddar, mixed with macaroni, sprinkled with Parmesan, then baked until bubbly and golden." 

Food52: "Raffald included instructions for béchamel sauce made with cheddar cheese, and advised readers to top the noodle casserole with breadcrumbs and Parmesan."

Academic-accelarator : "Rafaldo's recipe is a cheddar-infused bechamel sauce (French mornay sauce), mixed with macaroni, sprinkled with Parmesan cheese, and baked until bubbly and golden."

Ancient origins: "Her recipe calls for a Bechamel sauce with cheddar cheese that is mixed with macaroni and baked until golden." 

The Nibble: "Raffald’s recipe calls for a mornay sauce—a secondary mother sauce that’s a béchamel sauce with cheese—in this case, cheddar cheese. The sauce is mixed with cooked macaroni, sprinkled with parmesan, and baked until golden. 
The recipe from scratch requires cooked macaroni (now referred to by its Italian name, pasta); plus milk, butter and flour and cheese to make the cheddar or parmesan." 

KPC News: "Raffald’s recipe is for a bechamel sauce with cheddar cheese, which is mixed with macaroni, sprinkled with parmesan and baked until bubbly and golden." 

Guilty Eats: "The classic recipe, her very own, is based on a béchamel sauce. A béchamel is made by boiling milk and adding a roux, a mixture of butter and flour (used to thicken the milk), rendering it a thicker and velvety cream.
I know what you’re asking right about now: Where’s the cheese? Hold on a second. You can’t make a mac and cheese without cheese. The word ‘duh’ comes to mind….
As it turns out, you need to make a Mornay. And what’s a mornay? All you have to do is add grated cheddar cheese to the aforementioned Béchamel and there you have a Mornay sauce. As simple as that, folks.
In Raffald’s classic recipe, parmesan is also added, and when mixed with the pasta, the whole deal goes into the oven and is baked until the top is beautifully crispy and golden brown." 

America Fun Fact Of The Day: "Of course, this was just a pasta and cheese casserole—the first recorded instance of macaroni and cheese comes from the 1770 cook book by the Englishwoman Elizabeth Raffald, which called for tossing a Mornay sauce with macaroni, sprinkling with Parmesan, and baking." 

My healthy food life: "Raffald’s consists of a cheddar béchamel, mixed with macaroni, sprinkled with parmesan cheese and baked in the oven until bubbly and golden brown." 

Tur nog finns flera gratisversioner på Google Books! Jag kollade i flera och NEJ, Elizabeth Raffald nämner aldrig cheddar! Den enda skillnaden mellan 1769 och 1786 och 1803 , 1825, är stavningen.
1769, sida 261:

1786, sida 285:

1825, sida 207:

"What's going on???" tänkte jag. 

The Food We Know skriver: "Raffald’s recipe calls for a bechamel sauce which is mixed with macaroni, sprinkled with parmesan and baked until bubbly and golden.
Many articles state that cheddar cheese was used in the recipe but we have read the recipe and nowhere is there mention of cheddar cheese."

Och sen har vi grejen med "lay all over it Parmesan cheese toasted". Jag anser ju att det betyder "strö över rostad parmesan". Men alla källor hittills har sagt att den bakas till gyllene. Men det står inget om en ugn i receptet!!! Så jag letade efter andra sidor. 

Revolutionary pie: "Elizabeth Raffald’s The English Housekeeper (1769) has a recipe for macaroni in a béchamel sauce with cheese. Although not baked, it seems to be the first printed recipe similar to modern-day mac and cheese." 

Digital humanities studio: "In English recipes from late 1780s, parmesan cheese is actually used as a topping. In Elizabeth Raffald’s 1786 and John Farley’s 1787 cookbooks, both instruct you to “lay” Parmesan cheese on top of the boiled macaroni, and then “toast it” (Raffald, Farley). This process is similar to seasoning a dish, rather than favoring it."

 
The Tennessean: "In The Experienced English Housekeeper, Elizabeth Raffald instructed cooks to bake the dish rather than merely top cooked pasta with cheese. " 

"1001 Foods To Die For" av Corby Kummer: "An 18th-century English recipe from one Elizabeth Raffald layers the pasta with Parmesan cheese and cream."

"Deja Food: Second Helpings of Classic British Dishes" av Mary-Anne Boermans:
"Elizabeth Raffald is credited with the first recognisable recipe for macaroni cheese as we know it, in her book The Experienced English House-keeper (1769). It is extremely simple, if a little rich, consisting solely of cooked macaroni, a little cream and a little floured butter, topped with crisp, toasted Parmesan.
Over the years, macaroni's popularity has caused the basic recipe to be tweaked and embellished to such an extent that modern recipes now contain lengthy lists of ingredients and such startling quantities of cheese and cream that the main ingredient, the macaroni, gets swamped. This, and the following recipe, mark a return to the dish's simple, though no less flavoursome, origins. Both can be enjoyed either as an accompaniment or as the basis of a light meal. The quantities may seem small, but the dishes are rich.
This dish is more accurately macaroni in a cream sauce, served both in and with toasted Parmesan. The contrast between the delicate flavour and texture of the creamy macaroni and the crisp and punchy cheese is delightful, the mild taste of the sauce providing an excellent foil for the Parmesan." 

Det viktigaste: 
"consisting solely of cooked macaroni, a little cream and a little floured butter, topped with crisp, toasted Parmesan. [...] This dish is more accurately macaroni in a cream sauce, served both in and with toasted Parmesan." 
Tillbaka till historien! 

Epicurious säger att boken spred sig till kolonierna (plus så beskrivs receptet korrekt): 

"However, it was in Elizabeth Raffald’s The Experienced English Housekeeper (1769), another cookbook that circulated in the colonies, where we get our first proper recipe for macaroni and cheese in English. Her recipe calls for thickening the sauce with butter rolled in flour, denoting once again a predilection for creaminess." 

Vidare menar Epicurious att rätten kom till Frankrike vilket skulle göra den till en amerikansk klassiker: 
"By the time James Hemings began his training in Paris in 1785, macaroni had already been appropriated by the French, with the additions of a white sauce or cream and Gruyère cheese, and eventually ditching the usual cinnamon and sugar. England followed suit because, after all, the best chefs in England at that time were French. The colonies tagged along, not yet having established a culinary tradition and wanting to keep up with European trends.
It is likely that Hemings not only learned how to make macaroni and cheese, but also served it, as it was a favorite of Jefferson’s and considered ostentatious enough to impress guests. In 1789, Jefferson and Hemings returned to the US and moved to Philadelphia, where Hemings was the chef. Hemings requested his freedom in 1793 and it was granted in 1796. The information we have about him thereafter is speculative." 

Liknande skriver The Culinaria: "This dish actually originated in England and first appeared in a cookbook by Elizabeth Raffald in 1770, The Experienced English Housekeeper. Then it travelled to Canada with British immigrants and today its very popular in Canada as well. In fact the Canadians are the largest consumers of Macaroni and Cheese. Its arrival in the USA was however a different story. Thomas Jefferson and his chef came across it in Paris and loved it. He then imported a machine for making the macaroni pasta and even served it at a state dinner." 

Så det påminner om en béchamel. Såsen görs genom att koka grädde och smör rullat i mjöl. Men det är inte en traditionell béchamel, som Wikipedia beskriver så här:
"This sauce is traditionally made from a white roux (butter and flour in a 1:1 mixture by weight) and milk,[1] with ground nutmeg added to enhance the flavor.[2]" 

Men eftersom det är gluten i receptet sökte jag på glutenfri béchamel. De flesta recepten använder majsstärkelse/mjölmix men gjorde inte en roux. Jag utgick från G-Free Foodie.

Vad är "a lump of butter"? Jag trodde det var en personlig åsikt till jag googlade på cooking measurements 18th century och hittade en guide på Paula Walton's 18th Century Home Journal. 2 msk är svaret. Jag använder ofta Måttomvandling på Recepten.se, och den säger att 2 msk smör är 27 g.
1 gill är 142 ml enligt Wikipedia, Paula Walton's 18th Century Home Journal säger 1/2 cup. Måttomvandling på Recepten.se säger att 1/2 cup (engelsk) grädde är 140 ml. 

Without further ado... Mac and Cheese från 1769, fast veganskt och glutenfritt! 😍🤩🥳

To dress Macaroni with Permasent Cheese 

Mängd: ca 240 g

Ingredienser: 

20 g Valio Oddlygood Grand Italian Style 

110 g Garant Majspasta Makaroner 

30 g Naturli' Ekologisk Vegan Block 

1 1/2 dl Valio Oddlygood Cooking

1 tsk salt

1 nypa rismjöl  

Instruktioner: 

Sätt ugnen på 200 grader. Lägg bakplåtspapper på en bakplåt. Fördela på parmesan. Rosta högt i ugnen i 3-4 minuter. Lägg i en skål. Krossa. Värm en spisplatta på hög värme. Häll vatten i en kastrull. Koka upp. Tillsätt makaroner. Koka i 8-9 minuter. Häll i durkslag. Sänk värmen till medel. Häll makaroner, matlagningsgrädde, salt och rismjöl i en kastrull. Puttra i 5-6 minuter och rör om hela tiden. Häll på tallrik. Strö över parmesan. Servera varmt.

Förvaring: Förvara i kylen.

Farewell!